Tech Arcticles
Here are some helpful arcticles on how to do technical things on your Rincon.

• DynoJet Kit Installation Instructions
• Throttle Cable Adjustment Instructions
• Front Drum Brake Maintinance
• Re-routing Carburetor Vent Lines

DynoJet Kit Installation Instructions

First, you may be asking, "How will a DynoJet kit help my Rincon?" If your Rincon doesn't have the "uumph" to do a wheelie, it will now. Here is a picture to explain.

Here are the instructions on how to install the DynoJet kit on the Honda 650 Rincon.

First, you are going to have to take off the top of the carburetor to get the needle out. There are 4 Phillips head screws on the top to get it off. Be careful not to strip these screws out, they are soft. After you get the top taken off, the carburetor spring will come right out. Take it out and put it away. Then the black rubber thing comes out just by pulling on it. After you get it out, take a Phillips screw driver and unscrew the Phillips head inside the black tube. It will only turn a little then stop. Now you can remove the needle by pushing it up through the tube. This is where you need to be careful not to loose any small parts and remember how they go back together. When you get the needle out it will come out with two small washers. Hang on to those washers. Put the needle up somewhere if you want to keep it. Next, get the DynoJet needle, the DynoJet washer, and the e-clip that comes in the kit. Now, refer to FIGURE A on the picture above. Put the e-clip on the notch of the needle that the instructions above refer to for your elevation. Now put the stock washers under the e-clip and drop the needle back into the hole of the black tube where it came from. Now you may need to use needle-nosed-pliers to get the DynoJet washer on top of the e-clip on the needle. When that is done, put the white plastic retainer back over the needle inside the tube and use the Phillips screw driver and screw it in until it stops. Don't try to tighten it after it stops. Put the black tube-like thing back down into the carburetor now. There is a little "tab" on the outer rubber ring that sits into a notch on top of the carburetor, make sure you get that tab back into the notch. Then, get the DynoJet carburetor spring out and put it right inside of the black rubber ring, right where the old one came from. Now, put the top of the carburetor back on. When you put on the top, make sure the black rubber is all inside and none is sticking out. Screw the screws back onto the top in an "X" pattern just to be sure it seals up evenly. Remember not to screw them too tight, or they may strip out. Now you are done with the top of the carburetor.

To change the main jet, located on the bottom, you're going to have to flip the carburetor over. First, you should shut your gas off so no fuel leaks. Now, there are two bolts on the air box toward the rear of the ATV. Take them out so the air box can move back. Locate the intake tube leading to the air box and take it out. Next, loosen the clamp closest to the carburetor on the tube in between the carburetor and the air box. Then, loosen the clamp closest to the carburetor on the tube in between the carburetor and the engine. On the right side of the ATV, take off the plastic to get to the recoil starter and idle speed adjuster. Loosen the bolt and take off the black idle-speed adjustment knob. This will allow you to turn the carburetor upside down now. If you don't remove the bolt, you won't be able to turn the carburetor over because the line from the adjustment knob will get tight and not allow you to turn it. After that is done, turn the carburetor upside down as far as you can get to work on it. If you can't flip it over yet, the plastic may be in the way. So, you will have to remove all of the plastic on the left side and after it is off you can take off the gray plastic which will allow you to turn the carburetor over. Remove the large fuel line on the left side of the carburetor, it may leak some gas but will quit if you have shut the gas off on the tank. If there are any other lines that need removed, remove them so you can turn it over. You may also need to remove the carburetor from in between the two hoses to turn it over also. Now that you have it turned over, take a Phillips screw driver and take out the 4 screws. Be careful with these screws also, they are soft and strip out easily. After you get the screws out, you will take off the carburetor bowl. Refer to FIGURE B. This is what it should look like when you take the bowl off. There is a white platic ring-like thing around the main jet, which you can see in the picture, be careful not to loose this. It is not attached in any way and it's easy for it to fall off, don't loose it because it is needed. Now, to remove the main jet, take a flat-head screw driver and unscrew it until it comes out. Now, look at the instruction #4 on the picture above. It will tell you what main jet you need for your modifications (if you have any) and your altitude. For example, if your ATV is stock and you are below 3000 feet in elevation, you will use the DJ144 main jet. After you find out what main jet you need, get it out of the kit and screw it right back into the place where the old main jet came from with a flat-head screw driver. Screw it in until it is fairly tight; don't over tighten because you don't want to damage it. Now, you can put the carburetor bowl back on with the 4 screws. Tighten these screws back on in an "X" pattern just like you did for the top of the carburetor to make sure it seals evenly. Ok, you’re almost done. Last, refer to instruction #5 on the picture above and locate your idle mixture screw on FIGURE B. Screw it all the way in (clockwise) until it seats. Then, adjust it to what the instructions say for you elevation. Now you are all done with the carburetor. Turn it back over and put it back in between the two tubes it came from and tighten the clamps. Then, connect the black idle speed adjustment knob back on, on the right side. And connect and other lines you may have had to disconnect. Make sure there are no lines disconnected from the carburetor now. Now, put the two bolts back into the rear of the air box and tighten them up. Make sure everything is back like it was and there are no lines left unhooked. You can now turn your gas back on. Turn the ATV on and start it and check for any gasoline leaks. If there are none, let it warm up for a little bit and test it out to make sure it runs right. If everything is good, you’re done!

Tuning after DynoJet kit is installed.

Now, if your Rincon doesn't seem to be running right after you have installed the DynoJet kit, you will have to do some tuning.
If it doesn't run right on the low-end, you need to adjust the idle mixture screw.
If it doesn't run right in the mid-range, you need to raise or lower the e-clip on the carburetor needle.
If it doesn't run right on the top-end, you need to put in a different sized main jet.

When tuning your carburetor settings, always check the spark plug for rich, ideal, or lean mixtures. This is not 100% accurate, but it's pretty close. If the plug is black and sooty, the mixture is too rich. If the plug is a shade of brown, it's an ideal mixture. This is the mixture you want for best performance. If the plug is hazed over with a white film or if it is very clean looking it's too lean. Running the engine too lean, will cause heat and damage over time.

Now, to richen the low-end, you will need to screw the idle mixture screw OUT. To lean up the idle mixture, you will need to screw the idle mixture screw IN.
To richen then mid-range, you move the e-clip DOWN one notch on the needle. To lean the mid-range, you move the e-clip UP one notch.
To richen the top-end you put in a bigger main jet. To lean up the top-end, you put in a smaller main jet. They are numerically numbered by size. For example, a DJ144 main jet is smaller than a DJ146, which is smaller than a DJ148 and so on.

Disclaimer
These are the instructions of how the DynoJet kit was installed into my Rincon and it was successful. I will not be responsible if something was done wrong during the installation of your DynoJet kit, or if it causes damage to your engine for any reason.

Throttle Cable Adjustment Instructions

Here are the instructions on how to adjust the throttle cable on Honda ATVs.

Adjusting the throttle cable can allow you to open the throttle more and can give you more edge on the wide-open-throttle performance. The way it works is, when your machine comes from the factory there is a little black "stopper" at the end of the throttle rod and the throttle "rod" will hit that black stopper, not allowing you to open the throttle all the way. Adjusting the throttle isn't going to make a HUGE difference, it only gives a slight edge on full throttle. Here is a picture of the throttle closed. And here is a picture of my open throttle after I adjusted it. As you can see my throttle is wide open without hitting the black stopper at the end. This is as far as the throttle can possibley open and that's how the throttle adjustment helps a little.

Most of the time when you get your new ATV there is alot of slack in the throttle cable and alot of "play" on the thumb throttle. Now, on the right side of the handle bars (where the thumb throttle is) there is a little black rubber boot between the cable and throttle. Slide the boot off and away from the throttle. When you slide it away you will see a metal screw. As you can see, the longer one on the left is the adjustment screw and the one on the right is the nut or screw to lock the adjuster so it can't move after your done adjusting. Take a pair of pliers and loosen the lock screw just enough so you can turn the adjustment screw. Next, turn the adjustment screw to the left (counter-clockwise). Only turn it enough turns so that there are a few threads showing between it and the locking nut. Not turn the locking nut to the right (clockwise) and make it fairly tight. Lightly push on the throttle so see if you have gotten rid of the "play" in it. I left a little play in mine just so there is a tiny bit of slack left, but as you can see from the pictures before my throttle opens wide open without hitting the black thing at the end. Now push the throttle a few times just to move it around to make sure nothing is out of adjustment. You can take the cover off to see if it is opening all the way, without hitting the black stopper at the end.
Make sure the transmission is in neutral and turn the engine on. Rev it up a few times to make sure everything is working correctly and turn the handle bars left to right to make sure it isn't pulling on the cable. If it revs up slightly when turning the handle bars, you will need to turn the adjuster screw back in (to the right) a little ways. If everything is working correctly, tighten up the locking screw all the way and place the rubber boot back over them and put the cover back on if you took it off. Now take your ATV out and try a little full throttle running, you probably won't notice much of a difference but the throttle sure does feel better without so much play!

Front Drum Brake Maintinance

Here is how to keep your front brakes well maintinanced and working properly.

This is how I have maintinanced my front brakes and they work great and stay nice and dry. First, you need to take off the wheels and tires. Take a 17mm socket and break loose the lug nuts while the ATV is on the ground and then jack up the front end. Now you can go ahead and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way and take off the wheels & tires. To remove the brake drum, there are two 8mm bolts to take out. When the bolts are out, pull on the brake drum to get it off. It's usually sealed on there pretty well and will take some grunt to get off, so you may need to resort to using a rubber mallet and try to lightly tap it off. After the drum is off you can see the brake shoes and all of the braking mechanisms. Now you can see if they are really dirty or clean. Either way you can choose to clean them. Mine were fairly clean but I chose to go ahead and make them spotless. You can use nearly any kind of brake cleaner to clean them. Go ahead and spray everything inside the brakes and inside the brake drum. It should dry pretty quickly, but if there are still some wet spots from the cleaner take some compressed air and blow it dry. Now your done with the cleaning process. To keep all of the water and moister out, I used Bel-Ray waterproof grease in my seals. Take the grease and grease the insides of the seals very well. After greasing the seals up, put the brake drum back on. When putting it back on, be sure not to get any grease on the brake shoes. Push the drum back on where it goes and put the 8mm bolts back in. If you have the torque specs, you can torque them down to spec. If you don't have torque specs tighten them tight but don't overtighten. Wipe off any grease that was squeezed out when reinstalling the brake drums. One last thing you can do is take the red inspection plug and grease the edges of it so water doesn't get in through there. Put the wheels back on and torque down the lug nuts to spec.

The very last thing you will do is adjust the brakes. Take out the red inspection plug and turn the wheel until you see the adjuster. When you see it, take a flat-head screw driver and adjust it until it's tight. To tighten it, it will turn without making any noise, when loosening it it will make a clicking noise. So tighten it until you can no longer move the wheel by hand. Now loosen it up 3 clicks. If it's still too tight for some reason, back it off until the wheel can be moved by hand but still has some slight resistance. Regrease the inspection plug, if needed, and put it back in. Repeat this whole process for the other side and your done. Squeeze your brakes and you may notice that they feel tighter, this is a good thing. If they feel tighter, this means you should have more braking power. Take your ATV for a test ride and see how your braking is. After riding it some, recheck the lug nuts on the wheels to see if they are tight (or are within the torque specs).

Re-routing Carburetor Vent Lines

If your Rincon sputters or cuts out when riding in water, it's probably because of the carb vent lines. When the water splashes on the hot parts of the engine, the steam then gets sucked into these vent lines and it makes the engine sputter or cut out. To correct this, you will need to re-route two lines on the carburetor. They are located on both sides (one one each side) of the carb. You can either extend the existing lines or Tee them off like I did. See picture.
Now, you need to take them and run them up where steam cannot get to them. See Picture. You can run it up to the gauge pod or somewhere around the gas tank. Just put it in a place high enough so water nor steam will get to them. Run your engine to make sure the new lines are free flowing. If they are ok, find the nearest water hole and test it out.